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About JJ TAXIDERMY,Ardmore Oklahoma

At JJ TAXIDERMY in Ardmore Oklahoma, rapid turnaround and high quality are our main points of emphasis. It isnt easy to maintain a high level of quality and manage to get your trophy back to you in six to nine months months, but that's what you get from JJ TAXIDERMY. This Has been achieved by doing every step of the process in-house, your trophy is handled from start to finish by JJ TAXIDERMY. This means it will never be sent off to third party for tanning or finish work so there are no months of waiting on the capes to come back or the finished bird to be shipped back. All components for big game are acquired from leading suppliers, and all bird components are created (Cast, Wrapped, or Carved) in-house to ensure precise recreation of your Turkey, Duck, Goose, or Game bird. Read more details below on the processes and some suggestions for tropy care. Check out the Showroom for some examples of the quality you can expect. 


At JJ TAXIDERMY the central goal is to capture and preserve a moment when your trophy was in the field. Subsequently my emphasis is on realism from the wrinkles on an ear to the color and shape of an eye to the natural muscular definintion typically presented by each individual species, age group, and seasonal characteristic you might encounter. This is achieved by sculpting the manaquins by hand for anatomically correct muscle definition, adding material under the skin for facial definition, and precise alignment of ears, eyes and tear ducts.



Birds come in many different shapes and sizes, even when referring to only one species. In order to follow with the emphasis I strive for in realism of each trophy I work on, all bird components are constructed in my shop. These components are created using precise measurements taken from the duck, goose, pheasant, etc. to be preserved. The components consist of a body which is carved from foam or made of wrapped exlior depending on the size and type of bird. The head is cast from fiberglass using a mold made from the original head of the bird. This ensures precise eye alignment, accurate body size, and an overall attractive well balanced finished product. All birds are precisly groomed down to each individual feather to ensure a high quality product is delivered. Additionally, all feet of all birds are injected with masters blend preservative so that they never develope that shriveled non-life like appearence. All birds are delivered on a base or wall mount from REAL drift wood I have collected, or an optional weathered board presentation background. 



The first and most important concern is the hair on the cape. From the moment blood stops circulating to the skin, bacteria start degrading the tissue around the hair follicle which holds it in place. This process will happen faster the warmer it is. One way to ensure the temperature of the skin is decreased and ultimately the amount of bacteria activity slows, is to fill the field dressed body cavity with a couple of bags of ice. This will help, but it is still necessary to get the animal caped ASAP, as the hair on the face is the most proned to slippage (Falling out) and wont be cooled very effectively by the ice in the body cavity. I offer a "From The Field" caping service where you can bring it to me preferrably whole, i.e. not field dressed, and I will get it caped out and in the freezer generally in less than an hour. The remaining carcass will be wrapped for convenient transport home or to the processor. If you decide to hang the animal pryor to having it processed it is vital that it be caped before it is allowed to age. The same mechanisms that make hanging good for the meat make hanging really bad for the hair. When dressing an animal you intend to have mounted there are two things that are very important to remember:
1. Do not cut it high up into the chest. Many offset or pedestal mounts require much more chest and back skin than you might think. If too much is removed you are going to reduce your mount options....ONCE ITS GONE I CAN'T PUT IT BACK.
2.Several neck measurements are necessary for a correctly fitting form to be used. Because of this, tubing the neck when skinning is highly advised as it will enable me to get a more precise neck measurement and ultimately a better fitting form. Also, it is not necessary to remove the entire neck all the way to the base of the skull. In fact leaving 6-8 inches of neck intactd below the skull is ideal for accurate measuring. Dont worry about getting all the meat off the skin when you are skinning it. Its no problem for me to remove it, and you dont want to chance cutting a hole in it while skinning.

Again, please if possible do not field dress if you can bring to me for caping within a few hours of harvest, and if you do decide to do it yourself try not to split the neck skin all the way from the shoulders to the skull. You will like the finished product much better if you can try to follow these guidelines.


A badly freezer burned cape will produce an inferior mount. The middle of the back, face and ears are the most susceptable, but any of the skin exposed to the open air in a freezer will become freezer burned. With this in mind, please take steps to reduce freezer burn by enclosing the entire head and cape in a trash can liner with the skin side folded back on itself only exposing the hair side to the air.


The most importatnt thing to consider when storing a bird you intend to have mounted is to keep the feathers as straight and smooth as possible. The absolute best way to store the bird is to do the following:
1. Never "GUT" any bird, and try to keep from getting any bloodier than absolutely necesary
2. Soak/wash the whole bird  (not turkey) in soapy water.
3.Store in ziplock bag  (place in ziplock while still saturated wet). For larger birds a trashcan liner will work although they make some pretty big ziplocks nowadays.
4.Close ziplock or trashbag with as little air in it as possible, and wrap entire thing with tape.

I can do alot with most specimens i recieve regaurdless of the condition, but just remember if feathers or big areas of skin are missing, i can only try to cover it up but i cant recreate what isnt there.

PICK up and DROP off 

There are many options for the delivery of your throphy to my shop and back to your hands. I work in Ardmore M-F 8-5 and can usually get away at any time to come get a specimen from you directly. If you want to bring it out to the shop I appreacite it, and you can find a map with directions up at the top of the page with the contact info., just call first so I can make sure to be there. From around the middle of November on until well after the first of the year I am generally there all the time during weekends and evenings. I make regular pick ups from local processors and will also pick up from add'l processors in the North Texas Southern Oklahoma area, just give me a call and we will figure out the details. If you have talked to anyone who has dealt with me in the past Im sure they will tell you I aim to accomodate my clientel in all aspects of reciept and delivery. Just give me a call and we can do whatever best works for you.